Menjaga bunga dan tumbuh-tumbuhan berbunga

Potongan Tumbuhan

Sama ada bunga ditanam di taman rumah atau dalam rumah hijau oleh pakar-pakar perdagangan, jagaan mereka adalah sains.

Untuk menjaga bunga indah lagi; ingat bahawa mereka telah dikeluarkan daripada sumber bekalan air, sistem akar, dan akan layu dengan cepat jika tidak diletakkan di dalam air. Potong batang perlu diletakkan di dalam air dengan serta-merta, kerana udara dengan cepat akan bergerak ke dalam tisu menjalankan air dan plug sel-sel. Inilah sebabnya mengapa bunga potong yang telah keluar air lebih daripada beberapa minit harus mempunyai sebahagian kecil daripada batang yang lebih rendah terputus supaya air akan bergerak ke atas dengan bebas apabila ia kembali ke air. Luka boleh dibuat di bawah air untuk memastikan tiada udara memasuki batang.

A bunga potong juga telah dikeluarkan daripada sumber utama makanan-daun pada tumbuhan untuk yang bertugas. Walaupun daun pada batang berbunga membuat makanan, sekali dalam rumah mereka berada dalam keadaan cahaya yang rendah dan ini had karbohidrat yang ada.

Gunakan Pengawet

Pengawet komersial akan meningkatkan kehidupan bunga dan hendaklah sentiasa digunakan. (Menambah aspirin, wain, atau beberapa sen untuk memotong bunga TIDAK membantu untuk memastikan mereka segar lebih lama Jangan cuba satu ramuan rumah bru..) A pengawet bunga adalah campuran kompleks sukrosa (gula); acidifier, perencat mikroorganisma; dan perencat pernafasan. Sukrosa berfungsi sebagai sumber tenaga untuk membuat untuk kehilangan daun dan berfungsi menginsuranskan pembangunan berterusan dan jangka hayat bunga.

Satu acidifier menjadikan pH air yang lebih dekat dengan pH asid daripada sap sel. Bekalan air yang paling adalah beralkali dan boleh mengurangkan hayat bunga. Acidifier juga menstabilkan pigmen dan warna bunga. Inilah sebabnya mengapa mawar merah bertukar "biru" apabila diletakkan di dalam air tanpa pengawet atau acidifier.

A perencat pertumbuhan mikroorganisma adalah mungkin bahagian yang paling penting dari pengawet bunga. Bakteria dan kulat di mana-mana dan bersedia untuk memasuki permukaan memotong batang dan membiak. Sebelum gejala kerosakan sebenar, sel-sel tisu mengangkut air boleh menjadi disekat dengan mikroorganisma, menghalang pengambilan air.

Untuk membantu pengawet bunga dalam melambatkan mikroorganisma, sentiasa membersihkan pasu atau bekas. Juga membuang semua daun di bawah permukaan air, kerana mereka tidak lama lagi merosot. Air dan pengambilan air adalah faktor utama dalam menjaga bunga segar.

Satu proses yang dikenali sebagai "pengerasan" memastikan pengambilan air yang maksimum. Ini hanya bererti meletakkan batang baru dipotong di 110 ° F (43.5 ° C) air (tambah pengawet). Letakkan di tempat sejuk untuk satu atau dua jam. Pengambilan air maksimum dicapai kerana molekul air bergerak pantas pada 110 ° F (tenaga kinetik) dan dengan cepat bergerak ke atas batang. Bunga pada suhu sejuk kehilangan air kurang. Dalam satu tempoh singkat semasa air sedang penyejukan, yang baru dituai batang, daun, bunga dan mengambil air hampir sama seperti dalam imbangan kehidupan mereka.

Tips lain untuk Bertahan Lama Cut Flowers

Semak paras air daripada bekas atau pasu setiap hari dan tambah air ditambah pengawet apabila diperlukan.

Pastikan bunga dari draf panas atau sejuk udara dan kawasan panas (radiator, haba langsung, atau televisyen).

Walaupun kedua-dua draf dan kawasan panas meningkatkan kehilangan air, kawasan panas mengurangkan hayat bunga dengan memandu laju transpirasi (kehilangan air) dan pernafasan (penggunaan makanan disimpan seperti gula) dan meningkatkan pembangunan (kadar kelopak berlaku).

Ketika di luar rumah, bergerak bunga ke dalam peti sejuk atau paling sejuk (atas 35 ° F / 1.5 ° C) tempat di dalam rumah. Sekali lagi, ini akan melambatkan kehilangan air, pernafasan, dan pembangunan.

Jangan sekali-kali menyimpan buah-buahan dan bunga bersama-sama. Epal mengeluarkan gas etilena, hormon yang menyebabkan hal menjadi tua, atau penuaan, dalam bunga.

Ringkasnya, untuk menjaga bunga lagi:

• Recut batang dan mengeluarkan daun yang berlebihan.
• Mengeraskan bunga dengan menetapkan mereka di dalam air panas di tempat yang sejuk.
• Gunakan pengawet bunga.
• Menjaga mereka sejuk dan mengelakkan draf, kawasan panas, dan televisyen.
• Gunakan pasu atau bekas yang bersih dan memeriksa paras air setiap hari.

Tumbuhan berbunga

Cahaya yang tidak mencukupi, suhu yang tinggi, dan air yang tidak betul adalah punca lazim kegagalan dalam tumbuh-tumbuhan berbunga. Tumbuhan ini ditanam di dalam rumah hijau di mana suhu malam biasanya sejuk, udara lembab, dan cahaya yang mencukupi. Apabila tumbuhan ini dibawa masuk ke dalam rumah yang kering di mana cahaya yang miskin dan suhu dikekalkan untuk keselesaan manusia tanpa pertimbangan untuk tumbuh-tumbuhan, keputusan sering mengecewakan.

Poinsettias

Poinsettias memerlukan cahaya yang terang dan perlu dijauhkan daripada draf. Suhu antara 65 ° dan 70 ° F adalah ideal. Elakkan suhu di bawah 60 ° dan ke atas 75 ° F. Pastikan tumbuh-tumbuhan dan disiram tetapi tidak di atas air. Baru, jenis tahan lama boleh disimpan menarik musim sejuk semua.

Reflowering yang Poinsettia

Bunga poinsettia semasa hari pendek. Bermula 1 Oktober, tidak termasuk poinsettia dari cahaya buatan selama 16 jam; sama ada tutup dengan kotak cahaya kalis setiap malam atau tempat di dalam bilik tak berlampu atau almari. Mendedahkan kepada cahaya penuh di siang hari (lapan jam sehari). Gunakan baja apabila pertumbuhan baru kelihatan. Selepas 10 minggu hari pendek, tumbuh-tumbuhan perlu reflower.

Paskah Lilies

Menjaga tumbuh-tumbuhan di tempat yang cerah di mana suhu tidak jatuh di bawah 60 ° F. Air apabila tanah terasa kering.

Selepas tumbuh-tumbuhan telah bertukar coklat, memotong batang di permukaan tanah. Apabila tanah taman menjadi panas sehingga pada akhir bulan Mei, bergerak tumbuh-tumbuhan di luar rumah. Pilih tempat yang cerah hangat dengan tanah saliran yang baik. Loji mentol 4-6 inci dalam (permukaan tanah ke atas mentol) dalam kebanyakan tanah dan agak lebih mendalam di dalam tanah berpasir. Teratai Paskah boleh mekar kejatuhan pertama setelah ditetapkan di luar rumah. Mereka mudah untuk pemindahan.

Menyuburkan beberapa kali sepanjang musim panas dan menggunakan mulsa untuk menjaga tanah lembap. Pada musim gugur apabila tanah itu ringan dibekukan, memohon dahan malar hijau atau paya rumput kering sekitar tanaman. Pastikan mulsa ini sehingga pertumbuhan baru membangun musim bunga akan datang.

Azaleas

Azaleas memerlukan cahaya matahari untuk kekal sihat. Suhu malam 50 ° hingga 60 ° F akan memanjangkan mekar. Menjaga tanah lembap. Azaleas boleh ditanam di tempat teduh di taman semasa musim panas. Memberi mereka makan dengan baja asid dan memeriksa mereka kerap, menjaga tanaman disiram semasa tempoh kering. Azaleas rumah hijau tidak akan bertahan Zon 4 musim sejuk.

Azaleas perlu hari pendek dan suhu yang sejuk untuk membentuk tunas bunga. Jika anda boleh memberikan hari pendek, selepas tunas telah dibentuk, rawatan sejuk enam hingga lapan minggu diperlukan sebelum tumbuh-tumbuhan akan mekar. Sebuah bilik yang terang dengan suhu 35 ° hingga 50 ° F adalah ideal, tetapi sukar ditemui di kebanyakan rumah. Melainkan anda mempunyai syarat-syarat yang sepatutnya berkembang untuk Azalea, anda tidak harus cuba untuk membawa tumbuhan ke tahun hadapan.

Cyclamens

Cyclamens memerlukan cahaya matahari penuh dan suhu malam antara 50 ° dan 60 ° F. tunas bunga akan gagal untuk membangunkan jika suhu malam adalah terlalu tinggi atau jika cahaya adalah miskin. Mereka memerlukan air biasa.

Tumbuhan boleh dibawa, tetapi dengan poinsettias, tumbuh-tumbuhan tempatan jarang sama dengan orang-orang yang ditanam oleh penanam komersial.

Gardenias

Gardenias ditanam dalam rumah memerlukan penjagaan khas dan syarat-syarat tertentu. Mereka menuntut tanah asid dan perlu menerima penjagaan pemakanan yang sama dengan azaleas. Suhu malam harus dekat 60 ° F dan kelembapan di keliling pokok hendaklah disimpan tinggi. Suhu tinggi dan keamatan cahaya yang rendah akan menyebabkan kejatuhan bunga putik.

Keeping cut flowers and flowering plants

Cut Flowers

Whether cut flowers are grown in a home garden or in a greenhouse by commercial experts, their care is a science.

To keep cut flowers beautiful longer; remember that they have been removed from their source of water, the root system, and will wilt quickly if not placed in water. Cut stems should be placed in water immediately, as air will rapidly move into the water-conducting tissues and plug the cells. This is why the cut flower that has been out of water more than a few minutes should have a small portion of the lower stem cut off so that water will move up freely when it is returned to water. Cuts can be made under-water to assure no air enters the stem.

A cut flower also has been removed from a major source of food—the leaves on the plant to which it was attached. Although the leaves on the flowering stem make food, once indoors they are in a reduced light situation and this limits available carbohydrates.

Use a Preservative

Commercial preservatives will increase the life of cut flowers and should always be used. (Adding aspirin, wine, or pennies to cut flowers WILL NOT help to keep them fresh longer. Do not attempt a home brew concoction.) A floral preservative is a complex mixture of sucrose (sugar); acidifier, an inhibitor of microorganisms; and a respiratory inhibitor. Sucrose serves as a source of energy to make up for the loss of the functioning leaves and insures continued development and longevity of the flower.

An acidifier makes the pH of the water more near the acid pH of the cell sap. Most water supplies are alkaline and can reduce the life of cut flowers. The acidifier also stabilizes the pigment and the color of the flower. This is why red roses turn "blue" when placed in water without a preservative or acidifier.

A microorganism growth inhibitor is perhaps the most important part of a floral preservative. Bacteria and fungi are everywhere and are ready to enter the cut surface of the stem and multiply. Prior to actual decay symptoms, cells of the water-transporting tissues can become blocked with microorganisms, inhibiting water uptake.

To aid the floral preservative in slowing down microorganisms, always clean the vase or container. Also remove all leaves below the water surface, as they soon deteriorate. Water and water uptake are major factors in keeping cut flowers fresh.

A process called "hardening" ensures maximum water uptake. It simply means placing the freshly cut stem in 110° F (43.5° C) water (plus preservative). Place in a cool location for an hour or two. Maximum water uptake is attained because water molecules move rapidly at 110° F (kinetic energy) and quickly move up the stems. Flowers at cool temperatures lose less water. In this one brief period while the water is cooling, freshly harvested stems, leaves, and flowers take up almost as much water as in the balance of their life.

Other Tips for Long-Lasting Cut Flowers

Check the water level of the container or vase daily and add water plus preservative when needed.

Keep flowers away from hot or cold air drafts and hot spots (radiators, direct heat, or television sets).

While both drafts and hot spots increase water loss, hot spots reduce a flower's life by speeding transpiration (water loss) and respiration (use of stored food such as sugars) and increasing development (rate of petal unfolding).

When away from home, move the flowers into the refrigerator or the coldest (above 35° F/1.5° C) spot in the house. Again, this will slow down water loss, respiration, and development.

Never store fruit and flowers together. Apples produce ethylene gas, a hormone that causes senescence, or aging, in flowers.

In summary, to keep cut flowers longer:

• Recut the stems and remove excess foliage.
• Harden the flowers by setting them in warm water in a cool place.
• Use a floral preservative.
• Keep them cool and avoid drafts, hot spots, and television sets.
• Use a clean vase or container and check the water level daily.

Flowering Plants

Inadequate light, high temperatures, and improper watering are the common causes of failure in flowering plants. These plants are grown in a greenhouse where the night temperature is usually cool, the air is moist, and light is ample. When these plants are brought into a dry home where the light is poor and the temperature is maintained for human comfort without consideration for the plants, the results are often disappointing.

Poinsettias

Poinsettias require bright light and should be kept away from drafts. A temperature between 65° and 70° F is ideal. Avoid temperatures below 60° and above 75° F. Keep the plants well watered but do not over-water. Newer, long-lasting varieties can be kept attractive all winter.

Reflowering a Poinsettia

The poinsettia blooms during short days. Starting October 1, exclude poinsettia from artificial light for 16 hours; either cover with a light-proof box each evening or place in an unlighted room or closet. Expose to full light during the day (eight hour days). Use fertilizer when new growth is visible. After 10 weeks of short days, the plants should reflower.

Easter Lilies

Keep the plants in a sunny place where the temperature does not fall below 60° F. Water when the soil feels dry.

After the plants have turned brown, cut off the stem at the soil surface. When the garden soil warms up in late May, move the plants outdoors. Choose a warm sunny place with well-drained soil. Plant the bulbs four to six inches deep (soil surface to the top of the bulb) in most soils and somewhat deeper in sandy soil. Easter lilies may bloom the first fall after being set outdoors. They are easy to transplant.

Fertilize several times during the summer and use a mulch to keep the soil moist. In the fall when the soil is lightly frozen, apply evergreen boughs or marsh hay around the plants. Keep this mulch on until new growth develops the next spring.

Azaleas

Azaleas require direct sunlight to remain healthy. A night temperature of 50° to 60° F will prolong blooming. Keep the soil moist. Azaleas can be planted in a shady spot in the garden during the summer months. Feed them with an acid fertilizer and examine them frequently, keeping plants watered during dry periods. Greenhouse azaleas will not survive Zone 4 winters.

Azaleas need short days and cool temperatures to form flower buds. If you can provide short days, after buds have formed, a six- to eight-week cool treatment is needed before plants will bloom. A well-lighted room with a temperature of 35° to 50° F is ideal, but hard to find in most homes. Unless you have the proper growing conditions for the azalea, you should not attempt to carry the plants over to the next year.

Cyclamens

Cyclamens require full sunlight and a night temperature of between 50° and 60° F. Flower buds will fail to develop if the night temperature is too high or if the light is poor. They require regular watering.

Plants can be carried over, but as with the poinsettias, homegrown plants are seldom equal to those grown by a commercial grower.

Gardenias

Gardenias grown indoors need special care and specific conditions. They demand an acid soil and should receive the same nutritional care as azaleas. The night temperature should be near 60° F and the humidity around the plant should be kept high. High temperature and low light intensity will result in flower-bud drop.

Fakta dan Tips Memilih Raspberry

Terdapat biasanya dua tanaman raspberi: bearing Jun, dan Kejatuhan (atau everbearing). Di Amerika Syarikat, tanaman pertama raspberi biasanya puncak semasa Jun di Selatan, dan pada bulan Julai di Utara.

Tanaman Kejatuhan bermula pada akhir bulan Julai dan masing-masing lewat Ogos dan berterusan sehingga beku. Tanaman boleh siap pada pelbagai masa bulan bergantung kepada bahagian negara yang anda berada. Dalam usaha untuk menghasilkan Raspberi tempatan yang baik, pengeluar bergantung satu musim bunga dan musim panas yang tidak terlalu panas dan kering, dan tidak terlalu basah. Raspberi boleh cerewet dan mudah terdedah kepada kulat jika ia terlalu basah

Fakta dan Tips

• Raspberi datang dalam pelbagai warna selain merah: ada juga raspberi hitam, ungu dan emas.
• Raspberi adalah makanan yang sangat sihat; mereka adalah Vitamin C yang tinggi dan secara semula jadi tidak mempunyai lemak, kolesterol atau sodium. Mereka juga adalah sumber yang baik daripada besi dan folat (yang digunakan terutamanya dalam rawatan sel-sel darah merah yang rendah atau anemia). Raspberi mengandungi bahan semulajadi yang dipanggil asid elagik, yang merupakan (kanser mencegah) sebatian anti-karsinogenik. Raspberi telah ditunjukkan untuk menurunkan paras kolesterol darah tinggi dan pelepasan perlahan karbohidrat ke dalam aliran darah daripada pesakit kencing manis.
• Raspberi adalah tinggi dalam serat. Setengah kepada yang satu paun buah raspberry sehari boleh menyediakan puluh hingga tiga puluh gram serat yang mencukupi untuk keperluan nutrisi harian orang dewasa.
• Pilih montok, firma, beri merah sepenuhnya (atau kuning atau ungu jika itu adalah warna pelbagai). Buah yang belum masak tidak akan masak sekali dipilih. Apabila masak paling jenis, mencapai merah yang lebih gelap di gula puncak dan mereka yang berasingan dengan mudah membentuk teras yang masih melekat pada tumbuhan. Jika anda mesti tarik keras untuk mengeluarkan buah atau ia masih melekat pada terasnya, ia tidak masak!
• Raspberi 1 pain = 2 cawan = 500 ml dan kira-kira 3/4 paun (kira-kira 1/3 kg) dan baik untuk kira-kira 2 hingga 4 hidangan.
• 1 cawan raspberi adalah kira-kira 123 gram,
• USDA kata 1 cawan adalah kira-kira 64 kalori!
•  Raspberi adalah sejenis Bramble, seperti beri hitam dan juga dikenali sebagai "beri Cane" 
• Raspberi adalah berbeza daripada hitam dalam buah itu mempunyai teras berongga yang kekal pada tumbuhan apabila anda memilih raspberry itu.
• Raspberi begitu mahal di kedai runcit kerana, sejak mereka begitu lembut, mereka meremukkan dengan mudah, cepat dan merosakkan tidak kapal juga. Ini jauh lebih baik untuk mengambil anda sendiri!
• 2 pain (4 cawan) raspberi diperlukan untuk "pai 9
• 1 - 1¼ cawan = 10 oz. beri pakej dibekukan
• 1 cawan raspberi hanya 61 kalori dan kaya dengan serat pemakanan
• Raspberi yang tinggi kalium, vitamin A dan kalsium
• Raspberi mengandungi kira-kira 50% daripada elaun harian yang disyorkan vitamin C.
• Ladang U-pick Raspberry biasanya menjual beri oleh pound atau pain. Pain A sama dengan 3/4 paun buah segar.
• Adakah matematik dan berhati-hati untuk tidak lebih beli sebagai Raspberi cepat acuan apabila dibiarkan pada suhu bilik, dan hanya bertahan beberapa hari di dalam peti sejuk.
• Anda boleh membekukan beri bahawa anda tidak boleh menggunakan segera - hanya mencuci, memotong badan kapal kira dan pop mereka ke dalam beg ziplock, mengeluarkan udara sebanyak mungkin. Mereka sealers makanan vakum BENAR-BENAR melakukan kerja yang baik ini! Yang beri akan menyimpan untuk beberapa bulan tanpa dibekukan udara. 

Sebelum anda meninggalkan untuk pergi ke ladang:

1. Selalu panggilan sebelum anda pergi ke ladang - Raspberi dipengaruhi oleh cuaca (terutamanya hujan dan suhu yang lebih sejuk) lebih daripada kebanyakan tanaman. Dan apabila mereka berada dalam musim, keluar mengundi yang besar boleh memilih bidang yang bersih sebelum tengah hari, jadi CALL pertama!
2. Pulang awal. Pada hujung minggu, maka bidang yang dipilih bersih dengan NOON!
3. Kebanyakan penanam memberikan memilih bekas yang direka untuk Raspberi, tetapi mereka mungkin mengenakan bayaran untuk mereka; pastikan anda panggilan sebelum anda pergi untuk melihat jika anda perlu membawa bekas.
   Jika anda menggunakan bekas sendiri, ingat bahawa penumpukan Raspberi lebih dari 3 inci dalam akan Smush beri lebih rendah. Dishpans plastik, logam ketuhar kuali dengan 3 inci sisi tinggi dan periuk besar membuat bekas yang baik. Saya suka dengan bekas simpanan yang menggembirakan seperti yang di sebelah kanan.
4. Membawa sesuatu untuk minum dan makanan ringan beberapa; anda akan terkejut bagaimana anda boleh bekerja sehingga dahaga dan selera! Dan jangan lupa topi dan pelindung matahari matahari. Bugs biasanya tidak masalah, tetapi beberapa DEET mungkin baik untuk membawa bersama-sama jika ia telah hujan.

Tips Cara Pilih Raspberi

1. Perlahan-lahan memahami berry jari dan ibu jari anda, dan
2. tunda perlahan-lahan. 
3. Jika ia sudah masak, ia dengan mudah akan terkeluar di tangan anda, meninggalkan bahagian tengah melekat pada batang.
4. Mengulangi operasi ini menggunakan kedua-dua tangan sehingga setiap memegang 3 atau 4 buah.
5. Dengan teliti letakkan - jangan buang - buah ke dalam bekas anda. Ulangi proses memetik dengan kedua-dua tangan.
6. Jangan terlampau bekas anda atau cuba untuk membungkus buah ke bawah.

Memilih Ketua Tips

Sama ada anda memilih Raspberi dari taman anda atau di ladang Pick-anda-sendiri, berikut adalah beberapa tips yang perlu diingat:

1. Berhati-hati bahawa kaki dan lutut anda tidak merosakkan tumbuh-tumbuhan atau buah-buahan di dalam atau di sepanjang pinggir barisan.
2. Pilih hanya beri yang berwarna merah sepenuhnya. Sebahagian daun dengan tangan anda untuk mencari buah beri tersembunyi bersedia untuk tuaian.
3. Tumbuh-tumbuhan tidak mempunyai duri, tetapi mereka mempunyai pelekat kecil sedikit, seperti Velcro. Mereka yang mempunyai kulit tender akan mendapati bahawa mengganggu atau menyakitkan, jadi adalah lebih baik untuk hanya touc beri! Bersyukur, beri menonjol dari yang lain daripada tumbuhan, jadi ia tidak sukar untuk melakukannya!
4. Elakkan meletakkan beri dipilih di bawah sinar matahari yang lebih lama daripada yang diperlukan. Adalah lebih baik untuk meletakkan mereka di bawah naungan pokok atau turun daripada di dalam batang kereta atau di tempat duduk kereta. Cool mereka secepat mungkin selepas memetik. Raspberi boleh disimpan segar di dalam peti sejuk selama dua atau tiga hari, bergantung kepada kualiti awal berry. Selepas beberapa hari dalam simpanan, bagaimanapun, buah-buahan kehilangan warna terang dan rasa segar dan cenderung untuk menjadi layu.

Apabila anda tiba di rumah

1. JANGAN cuci beri sehingga anda sudah bersedia untuk menggunakannya. Basuh menjadikan mereka lebih cenderung untuk merosakkan.
2. Raspberi lebih mudah rosak daripada beri biru atau strawberi, sehingga membuat titik penyejuk mereka sebagai segera yang mungkin selepas pembelian. Suhu antara 34 dan 38 F F adalah terbaik, tetapi berhati-hati untuk tidak membekukan raspberi! (Raspberi segar amat cenderong untuk membekukan kerosakan).
3. Walaupun di bawah keadaan yang ideal raspberi hanya akan menyimpan selama 1 - 2 hari di dalam peti sejuk, jadi untuk rasa terbaik dan tekstur, mengambil mereka dengan seberapa segera yang mungkin selepas pembelian.
4. Menuangkannya ke dalam kuali cetek dan mengeluarkan apa-apa mushed, lembut atau reput beri
5. Letakkan beberapa hari bekalan ke dalam peti sejuk, basuh dan potong topi (puncak hijau) dari yang lain dan membekukan mereka!
6. Sekarang, bersedia untuk membuat Raspberry jem 

Raspberry Facts and Picking Tips

There are usually two crops of raspberries: June bearing, and Fall (or everbearing). In the U.S., the first crop of raspberries typically peaks during June in the South, and in July in the North.

The Fall crop starts in late July and late August respectively and continues till frost. Crops may be ready at various times of the month depending on which part of the state you are located. In order to produce good local Raspberries, producers depend a spring and summer that are not too hot and dry, nor too wet.  Raspberries can be finicky and susceptible to fungus if it's too wet

Raspberry Facts and Tips

• Raspberries come in many colors besides red: there are also black, purple and gold raspberries.
• Raspberries are a very healthy food; they are high Vitamin C and naturally have no fat, cholesterol or sodium. They are also a good source of iron and folate (which is used especially in treatment of low red blood cells or anemia).  Raspberries contain a natural substance called ellagic acid, which is an anti-carcinogenic (cancer-preventing) compound. Raspberries have been shown to lower high blood cholesterol levels and slow release of carbohydrates into the blood stream of diabetics.
• Raspberries are high in fiber. Half to one pound of raspberry fruit per day can provide twenty to thirty grams of fiber which is adequate for an adult daily nutrition requirement.
• Select plump, firm, fully red berries (or yellow or purple if that is the color of the variety). Unripe berries will not ripen once picked. When ripe, most varieties achieve a darker blush at peak sugar and they separate easily form the core which remains attached to the plant. If you must pull hard to remove the berry or it remains attached to its core, it is not ripe!
• Raspberries 1 pint = 2 cups = 500 ml  and about 3/4 lb (about 1/3 kg) and is good for about 2 to 4 servings.
• 1 cup of raspberries is about 123 grams,
• The USDA says 1 cup is about 64 calories!
•  Raspberries are a type of bramble, like blackberries and are also known as "Cane berries" 
• Raspberries are different from blackberries in that the fruit has a hollow core that remains on the plant when you pick the raspberry.
• Raspberries are so expensive in the grocery store because, since they are so soft, they bruise easily, spoil quickly and do not ship well.  It's much better to pick your own!
• 2 pints (4 cups) of raspberries are needed for a 9" pie
• 1 - 1¼ cups = 10 oz. package frozen berries
• 1 cup of raspberries is only 61 calories and high in dietary fiber
• Raspberries are high in potassium, vitamin A and calcium
• Raspberries contain about 50% of the recommended daily allowance of vitamin C.
• U-pick Raspberry farms typically sell berries by the pound or pint. A pint equals 3/4 pounds of fresh berries.
• Do the math and be careful not to over-purchase as Raspberries quickly mold when left at room temperature, and only last a couple of days in the refrigerator.
• You can easily freeze berries that you cannot use right away - just wash, cut the hulls off and pop them into a ziplock bag, removing as much air as possible.  Those vacuum food sealers REALLY do a good job of this! The berries will keep for many months frozen without air. 

Before you leave to go to the farm:

1. Always call before you go to the farm - Raspberries are affected by weather (especially rain and cooler temperatures) more than most crops. And when they are in season, a large turnout can pick a field clean before noon, so CALL first!
2. Leave early.  On weekends, then fields may be picked clean by NOON!
3. Most growers furnish picking containers designed for Raspberries, but they may charge you for them; be sure to call before you go to see if you need to bring containers.
   If you use your own containers, remember that heaping Raspberries more than 3 inches deep will smush the lower berries. Plastic dishpans, metal oven pans with 3 inch tall sides and large pots make good containers. I like the Glad storage containers like the one at right.
4. Bring something to drink and a few snacks; you'd be surprised how you can work up a thirst and appetite! And don't forget hats and sunscreen for the sun. Bugs usually aren't a problem, but some deet might be good to bring along if it has been rainy.

Tips on How to Pick Raspberries

1. Gently grasp the berry with your fingers and thumb, and
2. tug gently. 
3. If it is ripe, it will easily come off in your hand, leaving the center part attached to the stem.
4. Repeat these operations using both hands until each holds 3 or 4 berries.
5. Carefully place - don't throw - the fruit into your containers. Repeat the picking process with both hands.
6. Don't overfill your containers or try to pack the berries down.

General Picking Tips

Whether you pick Raspberries from your garden or at a Pick-Your-Own farm, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

1. Be careful that your feet and knees do not damage plants or fruit in or along the edge of the row.
2. Pick only the berries that are fully red. Part the leaves with your hands to look for hidden berries ready for harvest.
3. The plants don't have thorns, but they do have little tiny stickers, like velcro. Those with tender skin will find that annoying or painful, so it's best to just touc the berries!  Thankful, the berries stand out from the rest of the plant, so it's not hard to do!
4. Avoid placing the picked berries in the sunshine any longer than necessary. It is better to put them in the shade of a tree or shed than in the car trunk or on the car seat. Cool them as soon as possible after picking. Raspberries may be kept fresh in the refrigerator for two or three days, depending upon the initial quality of the berry. After a few days in storage, however, the fruit loses its bright color and fresh flavor and tends to shrivel.

When you get home

1. DON'T wash the berries until you are ready to use them.  Washing makes them more prone to spoiling.
2. Raspberries are more perishable than blueberries or strawberries, so make a point of refrigerating them as immediately as possible after purchase. Temperatures between 34 F and 38 F are best, but, be careful not to freeze raspberries! (Fresh raspberries are highly prone to freeze damage).
3. Even under ideal conditions raspberries will only keep for 1 - 2 days in a refrigerator, so for best flavor and texture, consume them as soon as possible after purchase.
4. Pour them out into shallow pans and remove any mushed, soft or rotting berries
5. Put a couple of days supply into the fridge, wash and cut the caps (green tops) off the others and freeze them up!
6. Now, get ready to make Raspberry jam 

Penanaman Bawang

Penanaman Bawang

Pemilihan pelbagai

Saiz mentol bawang adalah bergantung kepada bilangan dan saiz daun hijau atau puncak pada masa kematangan mentol. Bagi setiap daun akan ada cincin bawang; yang lebih besar daun, yang lebih besar cincin akan. Bawang pertama akan membentuk bahagian atas dan kemudian, bergantung kepada pelbagai bawang dan panjang siang, mula membentuk mentol. Bawang dicirikan oleh panjang hari; "Lama-hari" jenis bawang akan berhenti membentuk puncak dan mula membentuk mentol apabila daylength mencapai 14 hingga 16 jam manakala "pendek-hari" bawang akan mula membuat mentol lebih awal pada tahun di mana hanya ada 10 hingga 12 jam siang hari . Peraturan umum daripada mereka ialah "lama-hari" bawang melakukan yang lebih baik di negeri-negeri utara (utara selari ke-36) manakala "pendek-hari" bawang melakukan yang lebih baik di negeri-negeri selatan garis itu. Lihat halaman sumber maklumat bawang untuk pelbagai penerangan yang lebih terperinci dan gambar.  

Bawang Dari Seed

Pertengahan hingga akhir Oktober adalah masa terbaik untuk menanam benih yang super manis, daylength jenis bawang pendek hingga pertengahan di Texas zon III - V (USDA Zon 8 dan 9). Benih boleh disemai terus ke dalam taman, ditutup dengan inci satu perempat daripada tanah dan perlu bercambah dalam 7- 10 hari. Jika ditanam tebal, tumbuh-tumbuhan boleh ditarik dan digunakan sebagai bawang hijau atau Daun Bawang untuk salad atau makan segar dalam 8-10 minggu. Walau bagaimanapun, kebanyakan tukang kebun mahu berkembang mentol bawang sebesar bola keranjang. Untuk melakukan ini, tumbuh-tumbuhan bawang mesti menipis menjelang Februari depan sehingga mereka sekurang-kurangnya 3/2 inci selain untuk memastikan perkembangan mentol yang mencukupi. Tumbuh-tumbuhan dikeluarkan boleh digunakan untuk Daun Bawang atau untuk diubah ke kawasan lain dalam taman ini supaya mereka ini juga akan mempunyai ruang yang mencukupi di mana untuk membesarkan ke dalam mentol besar.

Persenyawaan tumbuhan bawang adalah penting untuk kejayaan. Hasil penyelidikan Texas A & M menunjukkan bahawa pertumbuhan bawang dan hasil boleh ditingkatkan dengan banding fosforus 2-3 inci di bawah benih pada masa menanam. Fosforus ini bertindak sebagai penyelesaian permulaan yang mencergaskan pertumbuhan anak benih muda. Banding fosforus, seperti fosfat super (0-20-0), 2-3 inci di bawah benih melibatkan membuat parit 3 inci dalam, mengedarkan satu setengah cawan fosfat super bagi setiap 10 kaki berturut-turut, yang meliputi fosfat dengan tanah, menyemai benih dan meliputi ringan dengan satu setengah inci atau kurang tanah. Setelah ditubuhkan, tumbuh-tumbuhan bawang akan menerima jumlah tambahan baja (21-0-0 - sulfat ammonium atau Ammonium nitrat) sebagai permohonan sampingan pakaian setiap bulan.

Tukang kebun yang cenderung untuk berlengah-lengah harus memberi amaran bahawa menanam lewat daripada bulan Oktober boleh bermakna kegagalan. Kegagalan dalam pengeluaran bawang datang dalam dua bentuk - - penghapusan lengkap benih muda semasa musim sejuk atau banyak bunga bawang yang mengurangkan saiz mentol, berat dan keupayaan penyimpanan. Tanaman bawang yang kecil dan berkembang pesat apabila suhu sejuk musim sejuk tiba mungkin tidak akan terus hidup. Namun, jika anda menanam lebih awal dan batang tumbuhan bawang adalah lebih besar daripada pensil apabila terdedah kepada suhu sejuk, bawang akan memulakan dan menghasilkan bunga pada musim bunga berikutnya. Bunga ini dinamakan hal mengunci. Hal mengunci memerlukan suhu rendah. Kebanyakan hal mengunci pesat disebabkan oleh suhu 40-45 darjah F. atau bawah. Tanaman Kejatuhan pilihan terdedah kepada hal mengunci musim bunga berikutnya jika suhu jatuh hangat, membolehkan pertumbuhan yang berlebihan, diikuti dengan suhu musim sejuk yang rendah dan perlahan pertumbuhan. Banyak tukang kebun percaya bahawa penyingkiran awal bawang bunga tangkai akan menyebabkan pembesaran mentol bawang tetapi ini tidak terbukti kes itu. Bunga menyebabkan pengurangan dalam saiz mentol serta tangkai bunga pusat yang meningkatkan kerosakan semasa penyimpanan. Ini adalah apa yang akan berlaku kepada orang-orang yang menanam pemindahan bawang atau set pada bulan Oktober atau November dengan harapan bawang besar musim bunga akan datang. Mentol bawang yang mengeluarkan tangkai bunga boleh menjadi besar tetapi mereka akan menjadi ringan (satu setengah berat saiz setanding, bukan bunga bawang mentol) dan terdedah kepada kerosakan. Jelas sekali, apa yang anda lihat tidak semestinya apa yang anda dapatkan! Cara terbaik untuk memastikan kejayaan adalah untuk sama ada tumbuhan biji bawang dari 1 Oktober hingga 15 November atau pemindahan tumbuhan dari Januari hingga Februari di Texas Zon III - V (Zon USDA 8 dan 9).

Penjagaan Arahan Pemindahan

Apabila anda menerima tumbuh-tumbuhan hidup, mereka perlu ditanam dengan seberapa segera yang mungkin. Sekiranya keadaan wujud yang membuat anda tidak dapat menanam tumbuhan ini dengan segera, mengeluarkan tumbuh-tumbuhan bawang dari kotak dan menyebarkan mereka di tempat yang sejuk, kering. Akar dan puncak mungkin mula kering tetapi jangan bimbang, bawang adalah ahli keluarga lily dan oleh itu akan hidup selama kira-kira tiga minggu off mentol. Perkara pertama yang bawang yang akan dilakukan selepas ditanam adalah untuk menembak akar baru.

Menyediakan Tanah

Bawang yang terbaik ditanam di atas katil yang dibangkitkan sekurang-kurangnya empat inci tinggi dan 20 inci lebar. Pertumbuhan bawang dan hasil boleh ditingkatkan dengan banding baja yang kaya dengan fosforus (10-20-10) 2 hingga 3 inci di bawah pemindahan pada masa menanam. Membuat parit di bahagian atas merangkak katil inci dalam, mengedarkan satu setengah cawan baja per 10 kaki linear baris, tutup baja dengan dua inci tanah dan menanam pemindahan.

Penanaman

Set tumbuhan daripada kira-kira satu inci dalam dengan jarak empat inci. Di atas katil yang dibangkitkan, menetapkan dua baris pada setiap katil, empat inci dari tepi barisan. Sekiranya anda ingin untuk menuai beberapa bawang semasa musim tanaman bawang hijau, anda boleh menanam tanaman sedekat dua inci selain. Tarik setiap orang lain, sebelum mereka mula mentol, meninggalkan beberapa untuk bawang besar. Pemindahan perlu dinyatakan 4 hingga 6 minggu sebelum tarikh purata pembekuan musim bunga lepas.

Persenyawaan dan Berkembang Tips

Bawang memerlukan sumber yang tinggi nitrogen. A baja berasaskan nitrogen (ammonium sulfat ammonium nitrat atau) hendaklah dikenakan pada kadar satu cawan setiap dua puluh kaki berturut-turut. Permohonan pertama perlu kira-kira tiga minggu selepas ditanam dan kemudian meneruskan permohonan setiap 2 hingga 3 minggu. Setelah leher bermula berasa lembut tidak dikenakan apa-apa baja lebih. Ini akan berlaku kira-kira 4 minggu sebelum menuai. Sentiasa minum dengan segera selepas makan dan mengekalkan kelembapan pada musim yang semakin meningkat. Semakin dekat untuk menuai air lebih bawang akan memerlukan. Untuk kawalan rumpai racun herba sebelum muncul (DACTHAL) hendaklah digunakan sebelum menanam. Ini akan menyediakan kawalan rumpai selama kira-kira satu bulan selepas ditanam. Produk lain seperti MATLAMAT dan BUCTRIL, boleh membantu dalam kawalan rumpai semasa musim yang semakin meningkat. Sentiasa ikut arahan label. Untuk tukang kebun organik kompos tinggi kaya dengan Nitrogen perlu dimasukkan ke dalam tanah. Malangnya, tidak ada apa-apa produk yang ada untuk membantu dalam kawalan rumpai jadi satu-satunya kaedah akan penanaman. Sambil memupuk berhati-hati supaya tidak merosakkan mentol bawang. Sebagai bawang mula mentol tanah di sekitar mentol harus longgar sehingga bawang bebas untuk berkembang. Jangan bergerak kotoran di atas bawang kerana ini akan menghalang bawang daripada membentuk mentol semulajadi. Bermula awal dengan amalan penanaman.

Penyakit dan Kawalan Serangga

Kedua-dua penyakit utama yang akan memberi kesan bawang adalah laknat dan noda ungu. Sekiranya daun menjadi pucat-hijau, kemudian kuning, penyakit tumbuh-tumbuhan telah mungkin terjejas kilang. Noda ungu menyebabkan luka ungu pada daun. Embun berat dan cuaca berkabus memihak kepada penyebaran pesat mereka, dan apabila mantra hujan berpanjangan berlaku dalam cuaca panas, penyakit-penyakit ini boleh menjadi sangat merosakkan. Penawar terbaik adalah pencegahan: hanya menggunakan tanah saliran yang baik, menjalankan baris dalam arah yang sama dengan yang lazim angin dan mengelakkan windbreaks atau perlindungan lain. Sekiranya keadaan berlarutan, semburan dengan racun kulat pelbagai guna seperti daconil boleh digunakan pada jadual 7 hingga 10 hari.

Serangga yang menyebabkan kerosakan yang paling adalah thrip bawang. Mereka makan dengan garau permukaan daun dan menghisap jus dibebaskan. Mereka adalah cahaya berwarna perang dan kira-kira 1mm panjang. The racun serangga yang paling boleh didapati adalah Malathion atau diazinon, atau sabun serangga atau racun serangga biologi boleh digunakan. Jangan membubuh sebarang racun serangga dalam masa tujuh hari dari tuaian dan sentiasa mengikut arahan label.

Bunga  - tidak normal Untuk Bawang; Normal Untuk Bawang putih 

Kebanyakan orang mahu berkembang mentol bawang TIDAK bunga bawang! Apa yang menyebabkan bawang mentol untuk menghantar sehingga batang bunga? Bunga bawang boleh disebabkan oleh beberapa perkara tetapi biasanya yang paling lazim adalah turun naik suhu. Bawang dikelaskan sebagai dua tahun sekali yang bermakna ia biasanya mengambil masa 2 tahun untuk pergi dari biji benih. Suhu adalah faktor yang mengawal atau mencetuskan dalam proses ini. Jika sebuah kilang bawang terdedah kepada seli suhu sejuk dan panas menyebabkan pokok bawang pergi tidak aktif, meneruskan pertumbuhan, pergi tidak aktif dan kemudian meneruskan pertumbuhan semula, mentol bawang awal bunga atau bolt. Bawang akan tertipu untuk mempercayai ia telah menyelesaikan dua kitaran pertumbuhan atau tahun pertumbuhan dalam kitaran hidup dua tahun sekali agar ia memuktamadkan kitaran dengan mekar. Bunga boleh dikawal dengan menanam pelbagai yang betul pada masa yang tepat. Gunakan hanya pemindahan yang pensil bersaiz atau lebih kecil diameter apabila menanam di awal musim bunga atau sentiasa benih tumbuhan, JANGAN pemindahan, pada musim gugur awal di Texas Zon III - V (Zon USDA 8 dan 9).

JANGAN menanam bawang putih pada musim bunga! Pembentukan mentol dalam bawang putih berlaku sebagai tindak balas kepada hari-hari memanjangkan musim bunga, dan bulbing dan matang agak segera jika suhu adalah tinggi. Selain keperluan ini, ulas tidak aktif (bahagian mentol besar) atau tumbuh-tumbuhan muda yang semakin meningkat boleh didedahkan pada suhu yang sejuk di antara 32 dan 50 darjah F. untuk satu atau dua bulan untuk memulakan bulbing. Tumbuh-tumbuhan yang tidak pernah terdedah kepada suhu di bawah 65 darjah F. mungkin gagal untuk membentuk mentol. Dengan penanaman jatuh, rawatan sejuk dicapai agak semula jadi sepanjang musim sejuk, tetapi penanaman musim bunga mantra bencana di Texas Zon III - V (Zon USDA 8 dan 9)

Apa Untuk Adakah Mengenai Bunga?

Apa yang anda boleh lakukan jika batang bunga muncul? Sekiranya batang bunga dikeluarkan daripada tumbuh-tumbuhan bawang? Memenuhi diri anda tetapi apabila kilang bawang telah diperketatkan, atau dihantar satu tangkai bunga, ada apa-apa yang boleh anda lakukan untuk menghilangkan masalah ini. Mentol bawang akan dimakan tetapi lebih kecil. Gunakan bawang ini secepat mungkin kerana tangkai bunga hijau yang muncul melalui pusat mentol akan membuat simpanan hampir mustahil. Pembentukan Seedstalk (pemasangan bolt) bawang putih tidak disebabkan oleh pendedahan kepada suhu yang turun naik, seperti halnya dengan bawang, yang bermaksud bahawa pelbagai tarikh penanaman jatuh dibenarkan untuk tanaman ini. Pembentukan Seedstalk juga tidak merosakkan bawang putih sejak ulas disusun sekitar seedstalk dan akan dikeluarkan dari seedstalk kering. Sebaliknya, bawang mentol boleh dimakan adalah ditembusi oleh seedstalk yang sukar apabila mentol dituai, tetapi terlalu awal mereput menyebabkan kerugian bagi seluruh mentol dalam simpanan. Apabila puncak menjadi kekuningan dan sebahagiannya kering, bawang putih sedia untuk dituai.

Penuaian Dan Penyimpanan

Bawang matang sepenuhnya apabila puncak mereka telah jatuh ke atas. Selepas menarik dari tanah membenarkan bawang kering, klip akar dan memotong puncak kembali ke satu inci. Kunci untuk memelihara bawang dan untuk mengelakkan lebam adalah untuk menjaga mereka sejuk, kering dan dipisahkan. Dalam peti sejuk, dibungkus secara berasingan dalam foil, bawang boleh dikekalkan selama setahun. Cara terbaik untuk menyimpan bawang adalah dalam beg mesh nilon atau stok. Meletakkan bawang dalam beg dan mengikat janji atau meletakkan tali leher plastik antara bawang dan berterusan sehingga stok penuh. Loop stok yang lebih kasau atau kuku di dalam sebuah bangunan kering sejuk dan apabila bawang yang dikehendaki, hanya klip off bawang bahagian bawah dengan sepasang gunting atau mengeluarkan tali leher plastik. Satu lagi cadangan adalah untuk menyebarkan bawang keluar pada skrin yang akan membolehkan pengudaraan yang mencukupi, tetapi ingat untuk menjaga mereka dari menyentuh satu sama lain. Sebagai peraturan umum, lebih manis bawang itu, lebih tinggi kandungan air, dan oleh itu hayat kurang. A bawang lebih pedas akan menyimpan lebih lama jadi makan jenis manis pertama dan menyelamatkan bawang lebih pedas untuk penyimpanan.

ONION PLANTING

ONION PLANTING

Variety Selection

The size of the onion bulb is dependent upon the number and size of the green leaves or tops at the time of bulb maturity. For each leaf there will be a ring of onion; the larger the leaf, the larger the ring will be. The onion will first form a top and then, depending on the onion variety and length of daylight, start to form the bulb. Onions are characterized by day length; "long-day" onion varieties will quit forming tops and begin to form bulbs when the daylength reaches 14 to 16 hours while "short-day" onions will start making bulbs much earlier in the year when there are only 10 to 12 hours of daylight. A general rule of them is that "long-day" onions do better in northern states (north of 36th parallel) while "short-day" onions do better in states south of that line. See the onion information resource page for more detailed variety descriptions and photos.

Onions From Seed

Mid to late October is the best time to plant seed of the super sweet, short-to-intermediate daylength onion types in Texas zones III - V (USDA Zones 8 and 9). Seeds can be sown directly into the garden, covered with one-fourth inch of soil and should sprout within 7- 10 days. If planted thickly, plants can be pulled and utilized as green onions or scallions for salads or fresh eating in 8-10 weeks. However, most gardeners want to grow an onion bulb as large as a basketball. To do this, the onion plants must be thinned by next February until they are at least 2-3 inches apart to insure adequate bulb expansion. The removed plants can be used for scallions or for transplanting into another area of the garden so that these too will have adequate space in which to enlarge into large bulbs.

Fertilization of onion plants is vital to success. Texas A&M research findings indicate that onion growth and yield can be greatly enhanced by banding phosphorus 2-3 inches below seed at planting time. This phosphorus acts as a starter solution which invigorates the growth of young seedlings. Banding phosphorus, such as super phosphate (0-20-0), 2-3 inches below the seed involves making a trench 3 inches deep, distributing one-half cup of super phosphate per 10 row feet, covering the phosphate with soil, sowing seed and covering lightly with one-half inch or less of soil. Once established, onion plants should receive additional amounts of fertilizer (21-0-0 - Ammonium sulfate or Ammonium nitrate) as a side-dress application every month.

Gardeners who tend to procrastinate should be warned that planting later than October could mean failure. Failure in onion production comes in two forms - - complete annihilation of the young seedlings during a cold winter or an abundance of spring onion flowers which decrease bulb size, weight and storage ability. Onion plants which are small and rapidly growing when the cold temperatures of winter arrive will probably not survive. Yet, if you plant earlier and the stem of onion plants are larger than a pencil when exposed to cold temperatures, the onion will initiate and produce a flower during the following spring. This flowering is termed bolting. Bolting requires low temperatures. Most rapid bolting is caused by temperatures of 40-45 degrees F. or below. Fall seeded crops are susceptible to bolting the following spring if warm fall temperatures, allowing excessive growth, are followed by low winter temperatures and slowed growth. Many gardeners believe that early removal of the onion flower stalk will cause onion bulb enlargement but this has not proven to be the case. Flowering causes a decrease in bulb size as well as a central flower stalk which enhances decay during storage. This is exactly what will happen to those who are planting onion transplants or sets in October or November with the hope of large onions next spring. The onion bulbs which produce a flower stalk may be large but they will be light-weight (one-half the weight of a comparable size, non-flowered onion bulb) and prone to decay. Obviously, what you see is not always what you get! The best way to insure success is to either plant the onion seed from October 1 until November 15 or plant transplants from January through February in Texas Zones III - V (USDA Zones 8 and 9).

Care Of Transplant Instructions

When you receive live plants, they should be planted as soon as possible. Should conditions exist that make you unable to plant these plants right away, remove the onion plants from the box and spread them out in a cool, dry area. The roots and tops may begin to dry out but do not be alarmed, the onion is a member of the lily family and as such will live for approximately three weeks off the bulb. The first thing that the onion will do after planting will be to shoot new roots.

Preparing the Soil

Onions are best grown on raised beds at least four inches high and 20 inches wide. Onion growth and yield can be greatly enhanced by banding a fertilizer rich in phosphorous (10-20-10) 2 to 3 inches below transplants at planting time. Make a trench in the top of the bed fours inches deep, distribute one-half cup of the fertilizer per 10 linear feet of row, cover the fertilizer with two inches of soil and plant the transplants.

Planting

Set plants out approximately one inch deep with a four inch spacing. On the raised bed, set two rows on each bed, four inches in from the side of the row. Should you want to harvest some of the onions during the growing season as green onions, you may plant the plants as close as two inches apart. Pull every other one, prior to them beginning to bulb, leaving some for larger onions. Transplants should be set out 4 to 6 weeks prior to the date of the last average spring freeze.

Fertilization and Growing Tips

Onions require a high source of nitrogen. A nitrogen-based fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate) should be applied at the rate of one cup per twenty feet of row. The first application should be about three weeks after planting and then continue with applications every 2 to 3 weeks. Once the neck starts feeling soft do not apply any more fertilizer. This should occur approximately 4 weeks prior to harvest. Always water immediately after feeding and maintain moisture during the growing season. The closer to harvest the more water the onion will require. For weed control a pre-emergent herbicide (DACTHAL) should be applied prior to planting. This will provide weed control for approximately one month after planting. Other products such as GOAL and BUCTRIL, can assist in weed control during the growing season. Always follow label instructions. For organic gardeners a rich compost high in Nitrogen should be incorporated into the soil. Unfortunately, there is not any product available to assist in weed control so the only method will be cultivation. While cultivating be careful not to damage the onion bulb. As the onion begins to bulb the soil around the bulb should be loose so the onion is free to expand. Do not move dirt on top of the onion since this will prevent the onion from forming its natural bulb. Start early with cultivation practices.

Disease and Insect Control

The two major diseases that will affect onions are blight and purple blotch. Should the leaves turn pale-green, then yellow, blight has probably affected the plant. Purple blotch causes purple lesions on the leaves. Heavy dew and foggy weather favor their rapid spread, and when prolonged rainy spells occur in warm weather, these diseases can be very destructive. The best cure is prevention: use only well-drained soil, run the rows in the same direction as prevailing wind and avoid windbreaks or other protection. Should conditions persist, a spray with a multipurpose fungicide such as daconil can be applied on a 7 to 10 day schedule.

The insect that causes the most damage is the onion thrip. They feed by rasping the surface of the leaves and sucking the liberated juices. They are light-brown in color and are approximately 1mm long. The most available insecticides are Malathion or Diazinon, or an insecticidal soap or biological insecticide may be used. Do not apply any insecticide within seven days of harvest and always follow label instructions.

Flowering -- Abnormal For Onions; Normal For Garlic

Most folks want to grow onion bulbs NOT onion flowers! What causes bulb onions to send up flower stalks? Flowering of onions can be caused by several things but usually the most prevalent is temperature fluctuation. An onion is classed as a biennial which means it normally takes 2 years to go from seed to seed. Temperature is the controlling or triggering factor in this process. If an onion plant is exposed to alternating cold and warm temperatures resulting in the onion plant going dormant, resuming growth, going dormant and then resuming growth again, the onion bulbs prematurely flower or bolt. The onion is deceived into believing it has completed two growth cycles or years of growth in its biennial life cycle so it finalizes the cycle by blooming. Flowering can be controlled by planting the right variety at the right time. Use only transplants that are pencil-sized or smaller in diameter when planting in early spring or always plant seed, NEVER transplants, in early fall in Texas Zones III - V (USDA Zones 8 and 9).

DON'T plant garlic in the spring! Bulb formation in garlic occurs in response to the lengthening days of spring, and bulbing and maturity are considerably hastened if temperatures are high. In addition to these requirements, the dormant cloves (divisions of the large bulb) or young growing plants must be exposed to cold temperatures between 32 and 50 degrees F. for one or two months in order to initiate bulbing. Plants that are never exposed to temperatures below 65 degrees F. may fail to form bulbs. With fall plantings, the cold treatment is accomplished quite naturally throughout the winter, but a spring planting spells disaster in Texas Zones III - V (USDA Zones 8 and 9)

What To Do About Flowering?

What can one do if flower stalks appear? Should the flower stalks be removed from the onion plants? Suit yourself but once the onion plant has bolted, or sent up a flower stalk, there is nothing you can do to eliminate this problem. The onion bulbs will be edible but smaller. Use these onions as soon as possible because the green flower stalk which emerges through the center of the bulb will make storage almost impossible. Seedstalk formation (bolting) of garlic is not induced by exposure to fluctuating temperatures, as is the case with onions, which means that a wide range of fall planting dates is permissible for this crop. Seedstalk formation is also not damaging to garlic since the cloves are arranged around the seedstalk and will be removed from the dried seedstalk. Conversely, the edible onion bulb is penetrated by the seedstalk which is hard when the bulb is harvested, but prematurely decays causing loss of the entire bulb in storage. When the tops become yellowish and partly dry, garlic is ready for harvest.

Harvesting And Storage
Onions are fully mature when their tops have fallen over. After pulling from the ground allow the onion to dry, clip the roots and cut the tops back to one inch. The key to preserving onions and to prevent bruising is to keep them cool, dry and separated. In the refrigerator, wrapped separately in foil, onions can be preserved for as long as a year. The best way to store onions is in a mesh bag or nylon stocking. Place an onion in the bag and tie a knot or put a plastic tie between the onions and continue until the stocking is full. Loop the stocking over a rafter or nail in a cool dry building and when an onion is desired, simply clip off the bottom onion with a pair of scissors or remove the plastic tie. Another suggestion is to spread the onions out on a screen which will allow adequate ventilation, but remember to keep them from touching each other. As a general rule, the sweeter the onion, the higher the water content, and therefore the less shelf life. A more pungent onion will store longer so eat the sweet varieties first and save the more pungent onions for storage.

Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures

Fans, Air Movement, Humidity and Temperatures Introduction The Growing Environment The most overlooked environmental factor affecting plant growth inside a growing environment or growing structure is airflow. Getting just the right degree of air movement across a leaf surface is vital to good production and yields and can mean the difference between high rates of photosynthesis occurring or none at all. Good air flow also assists temperature control, CO2 replenishment, reduces humidity and lowers the occurrence of certain diseases. Boundary Layers and the Leaf Flutter Effect A small amount of air movement - just enough to gently move or 'flutter' the leaf - has the effect of removing the stale, humid air from the boundary layer that lies just above and just below the leaf surface. This boundary layer of air supplies the leaf with CO2 and also holds much of the moisture transpired by the plant. If there isn’t any air movement, diffusion of water vapour out of the leaf and CO2 into the leaf begins to slow as the boundary layer air mixes too slowly into the rest of the environment. Air movement across the foliage creating a `flutter effect’, also assists photosynthesis and transpiration which plays a major role in calcium transportation, preventing blossom end rot and tipburn in certain plants. Temperature Control One of the most effective methods of cooling a growing environment is simply by having adequate ventilation and airflow drawn in from outside and vented out again. Obviously the amount to ventilation required to maintain the ideal temperature range will depend on such factors as the temperature of the incoming air, the heat load from lights in the growing area and the amount of air drawn into and flushed out on a regular basis. Optimal growing temperatures for warm season, high light crops differ depending on the level of CO2 provided in the growing environment. Where CO2 enrichment is used to maximum levels (in excess of 800 ppm), plants are able to maintain higher rates of photosynthesis under good light conditions where the temperature is run higher than normal. Temperatures in the range 80 F (27 C) to 92 F (32 C) with CO2 enrichment are recommended where light levels are high for warm season crops. Where CO2 enrichment is not being used, or is only being applied to prevent CO2 depletion by the plants and provide ambient levels (265 ppm), temperatures should be set lower to prevent 'plant stress' which can occur when conditions become too warm and stomata shut down to prevent excessive water loss. Temperatures for non enriched crops with good light levels are best kept in the range 75 F (24 C) to 85 F (29 C) for warm season crops. Night temperatures, when no CO2 enrichment should be carried out are best run at lower levels - this assists the plant to restore turgor pressure with an increased uptake of water at night. Temperatures in the range 65 F (18 C) to 75 F (24 C) are ideal for night or `non lighting’ periods. Humidity and Disease Control High humidity levels can become a major problem where plants with large leaf areas in a warm but restricted growing environment are continually transpiring and releasing water vapour into the air. Ideal humidity levels for flowering plants are in the range 30 - 50%, however the higher the humidity level, the greater the risk of certain plant diseases such as mildew and botrytis as well as bacterial infection where moisture forms on the leaf surfaces. Rapidly transpiring plants, with no air replacement can raise humidity levels within a very short time - conditions ideal for most disease to take hold. High humidity levels also slow the rate of plant transpiration (moisture loss from the leaves). Since transpiration is essential to not only cool the leaf surface but creates a suction effect resulting in water and mineral uptake and transportation within the plant, it is essential to keep the process going. Fans in a grow room, not only vent out humid air but bring in drier air to the growing environment and this is essential for not only good plant growth but also disease prevention. When humidity levels are high, condensation at night when it is generally cooler can become a major problem. Condensation on plant surfaces provides the perfect environment for many fungal spores and bacterial diseases to infect the plants. It takes only a few hours of high moisture levels for most diseases to infect plant tissue and take hold, so reducing humidity and preventing condensation are one way of protecting plants from disease outbreaks. Fan Types Required Airflow patterns should be considered in the design of any growing environment. The placement of fans, vents and air mixers needs to be arefully planned to create good air movement in through the inlet vents, over and under the plants and out again. For odd problem areas where still, moist air is collecting, small mixer fans can be installed. Intake and Exhaust or Vent Fans There are two types of fans commonly used in growing areas - intake and exhaust or vent fans. Intake fans pull air into the growing area, exhaust fans push it out. Exhaust or extraction fans which are positioned to extract warm moist air from the crop are the most useful, however an intake fan which draws in sufficient fresh air with an adequate vent system to allow stale air to be vented out works well, provided the fan is large enough for the area to be vented. Whatever sort of fan is being used to vent out and draw in fresh air, inside the growing area, air needs to be mixed and circulated over the plant surfaces. Osculating Wall Mounted and Pedestal Fans Circulation or mixer fans, which may be wall mounted, pedestal, or osculating types carry out the essential function of mixing the cooler, drier fresh air being brought in, as well as any CO2 enrichment to create a uniform temperature and prevent cold drafts from stressing the plants. These fans also carry out the role of gently moving the stale, humid boundary layer of air from around the leaf surface and replacing it with fresh, CO2 enriched air which stimulates both photosynthesis and transpiration. Mixer fans can be wall mounted to save space, but need to be carefully positioned and angled to get the greatest mixing and air movement effect. Stand up fans and osculating fans also need to be positioned with air movement in mind - and if any area of stagnant air (perhaps areas where fungal disease seem common) is found, small fans can be positioned to deal with these problems. The main objective is to not only get air circulating and mixing in the lower levels of the crop to reduce humidity and disease problems, but also over the tops of the plants where the most light is falling and maximum rates of photosynthesis are occurring. Spot checks on CO2 levels, temperature and humidity around the growing area and in the crop will help discover where air flow is not occurring sufficiently. Fan Controllers Ideally, fans should be linked to a thermostat - triggering increased air flow and ventilation when temperatures start becoming to warm, and the CO2 enrichment system if one is used. CO2 injectors which are designed to enrich fresh new air with CO2 as the inlet fan comes on are one way of making sure high levels of CO2 are always present when the lights are on. Fans should also be triggered to vent out warm, humid air and high CO2 levels just after the lights switch off at night. High levels of CO2 are not required at night when the plants are respiring and need to use oxygen only from the air. Condensation, can be a problem at night when temperatures cool and humidity in the air result in water forming on plants and other surfaces. Getting good air replacement or air changes in the first couple of hours after lights go off is one way of preventing diseases such as mildew and botrytis whose spores need very high humidity or free water on the leaf surfaces to germinate and infect the plants. If drier, fresh air is continually brought in so humidity is lowered and condensation does not form, then fungal and bacterial pathogens can’t attack the plants. Fans can also be linked to a thermostat and dehumidistat controller, which does the same as thermostat but adds on dehumidistat. Pre-set to desired humitity level. When grow room becomes to humit, the exhaust fan will turn on and suck the wet air out until preset levels are reached. By having control, our fan is not needed to be on full time without the expense of continual running. This type of system is ideal where the outside air temperature is cool and needs to be rapidly mixed and warmed when it enters the growing area. Where cool outside air temperatures exist, which might be many degrees below what is being maintained in the growing environment, continual air changes will result in sudden and continual drop in temperature resulting in 'thermal stress' on the plants. Fan Calculations Getting the size of the intake and exhaust fans right for the growing area is important for plant growth and development and disease prevention. The best set up is a system of two 'vents' - an intake vent set relatively low down at one end or corner of the growing area, with the exhaust or extractor fan set higher up at the opposite end of the room. The idea behind this is that cool, drier air sucked in from outside will flow up, through and over the crop (assisted by mixer fans in the room), and warmer, moist air which rises will be extracted by the fan at the other end. Step 1: The first step in working out the size of fan(s) required is to calculate the amount of air in the growing area. This is done by multiplying the length x the width of the room x the height of the room. This will give a value in cubic feet: For example, a 12 foot by 12 foot room with a height of 8 foot: 12 x12 x 8 = 1152 cubic feet of air inside the growing area. Ventilation fans are rated in the number of cubic feet of air they can move per minute. Step 2: Work out how fast one complete 'air change' needs to be carried out under warm conditions (i.e the maximum you will ever need the fan to operate). If excess heat in a certain growing environment is a common problem, or there is a large volume of plants growing in a very restricted space you will need more air flow per hour than for a larger growing area which doesn’t suffer from too much heat build up with smaller plants. Growers commonly underestimate just how much 'air exchange' is required to remove excess heat and humidity, bring in fresh CO2 and generally create fresh air movement over all of the plant surfaces. As a comparison to greenhouse crops growing in full sunlight - one air change per minute or 60 air changes an hour are often aimed for with large, mature crops growing under warm, humid conditions. However, in a grow room situation, one complete air change obtained in 4-5 minutes is acceptable. Obviously this needs to be more frequent (one complete air change in 2-3 minutes) where lighting is creating a lot of extra heat to be removed or when a CO2 generator is being used. Step 3: Divide the air volume of the growing area by the number of minutes required to get one full air change: If the room is 1152 cubic feet of air divide by 4 minutes (that's one air change can be carried out in 4 minutes) Fan capacity required is 288 cubic feet per minute (for just one extractor fan). Add on at least 1 medium sized mixer fan (either wall or stand mounted) for each 200 cubic feet of air, make sure these are equally spaced in the growing area. More smaller fans will be beneficial to increase air flow up and under plants in any 'stale air pockets' which may be prone to fungal or bacterial disease attack. While its relatively simple to work out the size of fan required for a certain size of growing area, other factors should be taken into account. If insect screens are installed over inlets, this reduces the rate at which air can be drawn in and both inlet size and fan size need to take this into account. If the inlets or outlets are not directly drawing in from or venting to the outside, but using long ducts, then a larger capacity fan or correct type of 'ducting fan' will be required, the size of which will depend largely on the distance air has to be pulled or pushed from outside. Conclusion Air movement with the correct sized fan, well placed mixer fans to displace stale boundary layer air around leaf surfaces and fan controllers to get maximum climate control are vital to the success of any indoor crop. Air movement is often over looked, but an essential part of maintaining optimal growth conditions by modifying temperature, humidity and CO2 levels at the leaf surface where the important plant process of photosynthesis and transpiration are occurring. Getting fan size and air movement calculations right means plants have the best conditions for growth, development and supreme yields.